Thursday, October 7, 2010

Smith Rock- The land of unlimited projects






Alright..so Jeff and I thought we are somewhat adequate climbers and were somewhat confident walking into climbing centers and craggs.  Well any form of ego we had got put to shame..no it got absolutely stomped on..not just by the hard grades at smith..but by climbing next to to french team petzl all day torching 5.13's and sending 14's. It feels like every single climber here is warming up on 12's and whipping up splitter cracks on hard gear.  I gues we gained a good balance of humility of how bad we actually are, and inspiration of what we could become to be.
The first day we got here around 3 and we hiked right down to the craggs and climbed a 10.b and an 11.b in the cocaine gully.  It starts to get dark around 6ish so we hiked back up and set up tent.  The campground is crawling full of your stereotypical "high all day and night hippies".  We were immediately greeted by a super nice guy named joel who has lived out of virtually a sleeping bag at Smith for the past 3 years and have met similar people everyday.  The neat part about the campground is that all the cooking must be done in a designated area so we get to meet alot of interesting people and have ended up climbing with them as well.  On tuesday we got started early and climbed a 5.7, 5.9, 10.b, 11.a, and 11.c.  I am starting lead more and have been really enjoying the new adrenaline you get from it.  The sun is sooo hot in the day and I have been loving regainig a tan..but the nights are freezing!  Wednesday we got started a little later and climbed some easy trad routes, we really enjoyed a 5.6 called cinammon slab.  We decided it would be a good day to start trying some hard stuff so we jumped on a 5.12 called henious cling..and man is it ever heinous.  We watched a 45 year old woman not just walk up it..but cake walk up it and after she sauntered up to a 5. 13 to the right.  Jeff and I are comforatable working on our little 5.12's as the smelly frenchies destroy routes left right and center! I am getting kicked out of starbucks so I will update you more when I can..love it here and can wait for more!! Let us know how your doing so we can keep track of what is going on in CANADA.

2 comments:

  1. Hey you guys! I just wanted to let you know that you're still my rock climbing heroes and you haven't beenrock climbing for that long! The smith family is good prycen is saying uh-oh and dad now. We are celebrating our anniversary tomorrow and then thanksgiving. We miss you guys!

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  2. What up effers,

    Gotta love eating humble pie, but I don't know if it's as good as the PECAN PIE that i'm having in a couple of hours. Yum! Anyway, we are down at the cabin with mom and dad and we also went climbing yesterday and I finally got the red on Lamb's head soup, we also climbed that 30m 10c on the outhouse wall, the Room and then I finished up on that Road Cut 11a.

    The pocketed 12a looked tendon popping, and you should keep on telling me the names of the climbs, because I look them up on rockclimbing.com. That is also cool that Steph has started leading more. Taken any good whippers lately?

    I'm definitely envious and your life right now sounds way better than law school. Oh well C'est La Vie.

    Let us know when you are planning on getting internet access next so we can plan on having another google chat.

    Peace,

    Lockey and Cami

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