Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Smith Rock..Check! Yosemite, here we come!

Okay so I apologize for throwing out climbing lingo with no definitions so I will try to make a point to describe what were talking about!
Where to start about the great time we have had in oregon.  We have been here for 9 days and it is not nearly enough for all that we wanted to climb.  Today Jeff and I found new "short term" projects because we know were leaving soon. He worked on a 12 b called crack babies, and I projected an 11c called bloodshot.  I am super stoked that I am leading most things I climb (unless its way out of my league and I want to humor myself and toprope it) and I had my project down to 2 falls.  The first fall was on the crux (hardest part of the climb) and I about ripped my fingerpad off thrying to hang on to a minescule crimp a.k.a. a thin seem.  The second fall was uber frusterating because I had pushed through where I normally get too pumped out but then my foot blew and I went for a good fall.  If we had more time here I would be able to redpoint(climb it top to bottom with no falls or takes and on lead) it but for now I am satisfied that I am pushing myself a little more than usual.  Jeff got his project down to 1 fall.  It is a super overhung and dynamic route..and he was just a little too gased to do it all together clean.  Looking back on the past week and a half it has flown by.  We have absolutely loved the climbing, the atmosphere of people here (mostly because they make us look like clean freaks!) and have enjoyed meeting so many new and interesting people around the campsite.  Now we are off to the most intimidating and bold part of our trip, Yosemite California where we will attempt to climb the big walls.  We are meeting a good friend Jeff Runions there and we are planning on climbing Salathe Wall on El capitan in 5 days.  We will warm up on some single pitches and some day multi pitches to get used to the granite and then its go time.  Just ten minutes ago jeff and I were discussing that we still need to buy..well I dont know how to say it other than a "poop shoot".  Because we will be on the face of a mountain for 5 days (sleeping there as well) there will be no way for us to um..have a bowl movement but keep a PBC tube with us and hang it off our portaledge (bed on a wall).  Im excited we are going to yosemite I am kind of nervous but mostly super anxious to see how we deal with the challenge.  It is kind of like we are runners, but now we are about to do an Iron man.  Also I apologize in advance to our mothers, and maybe my sister who is a new mother and has always sorta been my mom too, who may not sleep that well while we are on that climb..but we promise we will call right when we get down!  Hope all is well for everyone at home and we hope you will tell us about your own adventures too! Mucho love.


                                        This has been our home for the last 9 days!


                                               Coming down from Bloodshot- 11c
                                     Me at the top of my first outdoor 11 c Lead!

1 comment:

  1. Way to go guys,

    Can't wait to hear how Yosim is. CRAZINESS indeed.

    Here are some more fun definitions for you.


    Elvis legs 
    Wobbly knees resulting from tired legs.

    Epic 
    An ordinary climb rendered difficult by a dangerous combination of weather, injuries, darkness, lack of preparedness or other adverse factors. See Punter. AKA - Class 3 Fun

    Flapper 
    An injury consisting of a piece of loose (flapping) skin. A climber will usually just repair these with sticky tape or super glue.

    Gumby 
    An inexperienced (or unsafe) climber.

    Panic Bear 
    A panicking novice climber clinging to hand holds while searching desperately for a foot hold.

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